Thrustmaster Wheel Tester: T150, T300, TMX and T248

Check a Thrustmaster wheel's steering, centre and pedals in your browser, and find out whether pedals that stop short are a setting or a fault.

Connect your Thrustmaster wheel, then turn it or press a button

Set the mode switch on the base to its PC position where it has one, plug in the USB cable and the power supply, and wait for the wheel to calibrate. Browsers only reveal a device once it sends input. Nothing is sent anywhere.

    Set up: find your wheel and pedals

    Wheels and pedals don't have a standard layout in browsers, so the tester asks you to move each control once and finds its axis and direction by itself.

    Connect your wheel to start.

    1. SteeringNot found yet
    2. ThrottleNot found yet
    3. BrakeNot found yet
    4. ClutchNot found yet

    Steering

    –Find the steering axis first

    Full lock: turn all the way left and right once.

    Rotation (lock to lock)

    Match the range set in your wheel's software (G HUB, Thrustmaster Control Panel, Fanatec's driver): the browser only sees the wheel from one lock to the other.

    Pedals

    Clutch–Not found yet
    Brake–Not found yet
    Throttle–Not found yet

    The thin line marks the furthest each pedal has gone. Glitches are readings that leap and come straight back, the typical sign of a worn or dirty potentiometer.

    Shifter and paddles

    −Left paddle
    +Right paddle

    Paddles and gears are ordinary buttons: teach the tester which is which.

    All buttons and axes · 0 buttons pressed

    Press every button once: each one gets a mark when it registers. Numbers start at 1, as in Windows' game controller settings.

    Health tests

    1. Rest and centre

    Measures where the wheel and each pedal sit when nobody touches them, and how much the readings jitter. Line the wheel up straight first. Pedal pass: under 2% at rest and ±0.5% jitter.

    Not run yet.

    2. Pedal linearity and spikes

    Press one pedal slowly and steadily all the way down over 2–3 seconds, then let go. The plot shows the output over time: it should rise without jumps, drops or flat spots.

    Not run yet.

    3. Steering sweep

    Turn to full left lock, start, then turn slowly and steadily to full right lock (3–5 seconds). Finds spikes, jumps and dead spots in the steering sensor and checks both locks are reached.

    Not run yet.

    Force feedback

    Force feedback can't be tested in a browser. The Gamepad API only knows gamepad rumble, not a wheel's motor, so websites can't make a wheel push back, centre itself or vibrate. Use your wheel's own software: G HUB, the Thrustmaster Control Panel (joy.cpl, Properties) or Fanatec's driver each have a force feedback test.

    Wheel health report

    Selling or buying a used wheel or pedals? Run the tests, then tap Share result and put the link in your listing or message.

    Connect a wheel or pedals to start the report.

    Testing a Thrustmaster wheel

    The tester starts at 1080°, the maximum rotation of the T150 and the T300 RS (Thrustmaster). The T248 (Thrustmaster) and the TMX (Thrustmaster) turn 900°, and the tester switches to 900° when it recognises either. Whatever the model, make the tester match the rotation set in the Thrustmaster Control Panel.

    Plug in the power supply and USB and set the base’s switch to its PC position where it has one. The wheel then calibrates by itself: keep your hands off until it has stopped, because touching it moves the centre it records (Thrustmaster’s centring guide). If a T248 still reads off-centre in the rest check, Thrustmaster’s recentring procedure (both locks, back to centre, then a three-button combination) saves a new centre (Thrustmaster support). Then follow the set-up: a quarter turn right, then each pedal. If your pedal set has no clutch (the T150’s standard pedals, for example), choose Skip at the clutch step.

    Pedals that stop short or spike

    Stopping short is usually the pedal mode. Thrustmaster’s bases need to know whether standard pedals (T3PA, T3PM) or T-LCM load-cell pedals are connected, and the wrong mode caps the travel (Thrustmaster support). The pedal bars show the furthest each pedal has gone: if the brake tops out at the same point every time, check the mode before suspecting the pedal.

    Spikes point to the sensor. Thrustmaster’s T3PA pedal set, which comes with the T150 Pro, uses potentiometers, which wear and collect dust like any other; the T248’s T3PM pedals and the T-LCM’s throttle and clutch are magnetic, and the T-LCM brake measures force with a load cell, so spikes there point to a cable or connector instead.

    Steering on the T300 RS uses Thrustmaster’s H.E.A.R.T. magnetic sensor with 16-bit resolution, so the steering sweep should show a clean, finely stepped line from lock to lock.

    What the tester is set up for

    Rotation1080° lock to lock, preset in the tester
    USB ids044f:b65d Thrustmaster wheel (starting up)044f:b677 Thrustmaster T150044f:b66e Thrustmaster T300 RS044f:b66d Thrustmaster T300 RS (PS4 mode)044f:b66f Thrustmaster T300 RS GT044f:b67f Thrustmaster TMX044f:b696 Thrustmaster T248

    Button numbers count from 1, as in Windows' game controller settings; if yours differ, use the Learn buttons. USB ids come from the Linux kernel's device list and SDL; the tester shows the id your browser reports under the device's name.

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